Welcome to Bos. Dict. You need to upgrade your Flash Player. This is replaced by the Flash content. Content here allows you to leave out noscript. Include a link to bypass the detection if you wish. Engine maintenance on Volvo cars. VOC Home ? Dipstick O- Ring Fails. Oil Breather Box Beneath Flame Trap. Vacuum Leaks. Oil Seals and Leaks: Finding Engine Oil Leaks. Cleaning Your Engine. Replacing Oil Seals. Front Cam and Intermediate Seal Replacement. Leaking Intermediate Shaft Rear Plug. Rear Seal Replacement Abbreviations: AMM = Air Mass Meter. ECT = Engine Coolant Temperature sensor. ECU = Engine Control Unit computer (either fuel injection or ignition)FI = Fuel Injection. FPR = Fuel Pressure Regulator. IAC = Idle Air Control solenoid valve. TB = Throttle Body. TPS = Throttle Position Sensor. VSS = Vehicle Speed Sensor. Accessory Belt Tightening and Maintenance. Take a spray bottle of water filled with water. With the engine on fast idle, spray a stream at each belt separately. Your personal information and card details are 100% secure. Engine maintenance covering seals, belts, crankcase ventilation. Engine: Seals, Belts, Crankcase Ventilation PDF. Accessory Belt Tightening and. We installed this Harbor Oak Cortec 5 months or so ago but have not moved into our house as yet. The contractor had a walking path of paper down and since we are. Clutch Head Screw Originated by United Screw and Bolt. The recess in clutch heads looks like a bowtie. In a pinch, a clutch head screw can be driven by a slotted. It would be funny, if it weren’t so damn sad. As a protest against the House Republican decision to pass a healthcare bill that will cause millions of people to. The world will all of a sudden get real nice and quiet when you've hit the problem belt(s). If that doesn't alter the noise then you can look elsewhere (like bearings in the water pump, alternator, power steering, etc.). Tightening the belts will normally eliminate the squealing, but you don't want to overtighten lest you shorten the life of the water pump and/or alternator shaft bearings. While you're in there with the bottle, shoot the base of each injector with water. If the engine stumbles at all then that's a sign that the injector seals need replacing. I prefer to run my belts not too taut because of this and consequently a tendency for belt squeal is the price I pay. You can eliminate this by keeping the belts in top shape: replace at the first sign of fatigue (fraying, hardening, cracking) de- glaze the belts and pulleys (with sandpaper and/or emery cloth) check that all pulleys are aligned. Any belt deflection will only hasten belt wear, glazing and squealing. If they are misaligned, suspect your rubber mounting bushings. Disconnect the battery ground cable first. Use a little PBlaster dripped (not sprayed) onto these bolts to ease in removal and avoid rounding them off. If they are corroded (and they frequently are), use six- point sockets. Reinstall using a little antiseize. In the case of the p/s and a/c belts, you will need to raise the car on jackstands at the jacking points and then remove the belly pan. The bolts at the bottom of the compressor must be accessed from underneath, after the black plastic belly pan has been removed. The top two bolts are on each of the two curved mounting arms at the top of the compressor (one in front and one in back). The front bolt is part of the tensioner assembly. The tensioner bolt has a 1. To link to this poem, put the URL below into your page: <a href="http:// of Myself by Walt Whitman</a> Plain for. Different types of vacations require different gear, and one of the biggest choices most of us make as we head off to the airport is the choice between packing. There’s still a ton we don’t know about seizure triggers, since there isn’t a reliable way to test them in humans or animals. A team of researchers from the. Your Facebook News Feed is about to change, yet again, and it’s because the social media giant wants you to be better informed. Facebook announced Wednesday that it. The nut on the rear bolt can be hard to reach. The wrench will be close to the point, where a wire goes into the compressor case. This nut is behind and in line with the front nut. ![]() ![]() Loosen both of these nuts. Then loosen the tensioner, by turning it counter- clockwise. ![]() These are closest to the base of the bracket, on which the compressor is mounted. Loosening these bolts lets the compressor be swung upwards and towards the engine. That lets the belt - already in place on the crank pulley - slip over the compressor pulley. You may need to use a round shank screwdriver to ease the belt over the compressor pulley. Replace the belt and tighten the tensione, until the belt can be pressed downwards with your index finder about 1/4. These are the notes and references to accompany the print, iPad, ePub and Kindle versions of the book. There are 1600+ entries, some of them extended. If you live in a high- moisture climate and/or one where salt is used on the roads, it might be well to remove the nuts on the lower pivot bolts, and to put anti- seize compound on the bolt threads. Tighten fully the nuts on the lower pivot bolts. One is at the back of the long top fixing bolt; the other is at the bottom in front. The tensioner bolt is beneath on the side. Turn the tensioner screw counter- clockwise to move the unit toward the engine and loosen the belt. You should check the three rubber alternator bushings when you replace this belt. They can be pressed out and replaced by hand. The inner power steering pump belt requires that you loosen the 1. You may also need to loosen the nut and bolt through the bottom of the pump (best reached from below). To get enough slack to remove the belt, remove the bolt that tightens the pump against the adjustment bracket. WIth this bolt present, the pump will not move freely through the entire adjustment range. You will need to replace the bolt after you put the new belt on. If the pulley is misaligned, see the Steering section for information about the pump bracket. When tightening the bottom bolt and nut, use Loctite to ensure it stays tight. In the case of the compressor and power steering pulleys, you may need to lever the belt over the edge of the pulley to install it. Loosen the 1. 3mm or 1. This unlocks the alternator or compressor and allows you to adjust tension with the long 1. This latter bolt is used ONLY to position the alternator. Once you have set belt tension (3/1. BACK OFF a few turns on the positioning bolt to unload it. Don't forget to lock the main nut/bolt or your belt tension will eventually fracture the adjusting bolt. If you fracture it, buy the assembly at the dealer (Volvo p/n 1. IPD. The alternator tensioning bolt is M6 x 1. Contitech recommends the following drive belt tension settings for Volvo B2. XX engines. Narrow 1. New: 4. 0kg; Used: 2. Wide 1. 3 mm belt used for later (> 1. New: 5. 5 kg; Used: 4. Serpentine Belt. Take off the old belt noting the routing and install a new one. Let go of the tensioner and you are done. There is a revised belt that is longer and uses a new routing. The new routing as the belt leaves the crank going CCW is: A/C to Alternator, back down and around the idler, up around the power steering punp, down past the tensioner to the crank. Apparently when you begin to accrue higher mileage (in exess of 1. K), the tensioner begins to sag, it will cause rubbing along the inside edge (toward the engine) of the belt surface. Replacement of the tensioner is called for. We've heard about at least one (rare) instance of a broken serpentine finding it's way into the timing belt housing, and the rest, as they say, is history. Bushings are readily available and relatively cheap, even from Volvo. Poly bushings are also available. Belt Brands. Top quality belt brands are Continental, Gates, Goodyear, Bando, and NAPA Premium. Alternator Belt Slips and Doesn't Charge. Paint a stripe from the hub to the rim. Run the car until you hear the squeek. Look at the stripe, if it is displaced replace the harmonic balancer. The rubber insert loosens and slips after a time. Timing belt change intervals, per Volvo service chart recommendations, are as shown below. Miles are shown; kilometers equal miles times 1. B2. 34 engines require balance belt changes at the same intervals. B6. 30. 0 engines for 1. For interference engines (B2. B2. 34/B6. 30. 0) you are highly advised to replace tensioners and, if appropriate, idler pulleys regularly since a failure in any of these components will quickly lead to belt and valve failure. See detailed instructions in each engine section below. B2. 30 Series Engines: Do I Have an Interference Engine? If you have an interference engine, you MUST change your timing belt on schedule or else you risk very expensive damage. You must also pay closer attention to the condition of the tensioners, pulley bolts, and front seals: anything that can cause the belt to fail prematurely must be repaired quickly. Not all Volvo engines are non- interference. This part is replaced during normal maintenance every 5. See the owner's manual. It is highly advisable to change the seals on cam, intermediate and crank shafts when changing the belt at 9. Additionally, at 1. Always carefully inspect the crankshaft sprocket for cracks along the keyway that locks it to the crank. If your front seals (or any engine seals) are leaking, or you find your dipstick pushed up after running the engine, check your flame trap! For 9. 60 B6. 30. Timing Belt Change below. So the best thing to do is to install all the components at the same time. Belt Change: Mileage, Time or Condition Indictators? Does the belt show a particular wear pattern? Car in question is a 9. Belt has 7. K miles and there a very fine crack in the rubber on the inside of the belt next to one tooth. Crack goes across the whole belt width. Occasionally I've seen where the belt is joined, it will have a similar crack across the entire width (on the inside of the belt). You can sort of see the mark if you look at it carefully. But I'd be suspicious of the belt anyway with a crack in it. If it breaks that tooth, it will break more also. In the interest of potential expense vs. See below for tips on replacement of B6. These are critically important to your engine. These generally last 1. This two- piece pulley has a rubber isolator between halves; it fails right there. To monitor its condition, paint a white stripe across the two pulley halves so you can detect any differential rotation. Timing belt and shaft alignment marks are illustrated in this FAQ file. It helps to have the front of the car on ramps or jack stands. Label the drive belts so you can reinstall them correctly. Cover the radiator fins with cardboard to keep from damaging them with tools. Unbolt and remove the camshaft drivebelt cover. Line up engine: Use crankshaft center bolt (2. TDC, No 1 firing. This is indicated when the mark on the camshaft sprocket is in line with the mark on the camshaft cover or the drivebelt backplate. At the same time the marks on the crankshaft sprocket guide plate and the oil seal housing will be in line. Do not turn crankshaft or camshaft with timing belt removed. Use special tool 5. Remove tensioner 1. Attach tool 5. 28. Use tensioner nut (no washer) to hold tool 5. See the notes in Engine- Mechanical regarding inability to insert the 5. If you have no tool 5. Crankshaft Bolt for tips on how to secure the crank. Loosen the crankshaft bolt counterclockwise using a 2. Remove the lower timing belt cover. Pull belt to compress tensioner spring. Tighten tensioner nut. Secure spring tensioner by inserting a drill bit or nail through hole in tensioner bolt (photos).
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